As momentum to ban “forever chemicals” builds, manufacturers are starting to seek out alternatives – particularly for outdoor apparel, which has widely used the substances to create durable waterproof coatings on jackets and other gear.

Two companies – biotech firm Modern Meadow and textile maker Singtex – recently launched a co-development partnership to create sustainably produced, waterproof, membrane-based material for outdoor apparel.

Waterproof fabrics have typically been created using chemicals like per- and polyfluorinated alkyl substances (PFAS) – nicknamed forever chemicals because they don’t break down in the environment and can contaminate water sources. Many apparel brands have been taking steps to eliminate PFAS from their products. Patagonia, for example, has said that in 2022, 78% of its water-repellent fabrics are PFAS-free, and has set a goal to be 100% PFAS-free across its entire product line by 2024. But an industry-standard solution to the issue has been elusive.

Modern Meadow and Singtex are hoping to become that solution. The companies say they are working on a bio-derived, membrane-based material using Modern Meadow’s proprietary, protein-based Bio-Alloy technology. The companies say they hope to bring a sustainable solution at scale “that protects human health and the environment while delivering superior product performance through waterproofing, breathability, abrasion and durability.”

Catherine Roggero-Loviso, CEO of Modern Meadow, says her company’s partnership with Singtex will create an impact, especially as consumer demand for environmentally friendly products grows. “Modern Meadow and Singtex will engineer each aspect of the product to enable outdoor apparel and gear manufacturers to replace the use of harmful chemicals, petrochemical and animal byproducts with ethical and environmentally friendly inputs, meet more stringent consumer demands and achieve sustainability goals,” she added.

In addition to being employed for waterproofing outdoor apparel, PFAS chemicals are used in a spectrum of products, from firefighting foams to carpets, shampoos, mascara and some grease-resistant paper. However, PFAS can leach into water sources and build up in fish and wildlife, and research has linked exposure to certain PFAS with various health problems, including kidney and testicular cancers, thyroid disease and high cholesterol, according to the EPA.

Last year, California and New York both passed PFAS bans, prohibiting their use in apparel and certain other products. A recent Maine law requires manufacturers to report the presence of intentionally added PFAS chemicals to products they seek to sell or distribute in the state.

Modern Meadow is known for its BioFabbrica Bio-Tex material, which has been shown to reduce greenhouse gas emissions more than 90% compared to traditional leather. Singtex, founded in 1989 as a producer of woven fabric, bills itself as one of the most prominent suppliers of eco-friendly and functional textiles in Taiwan. The company has global environmental certifications that include bluesign, EOCA, OEKO-TEX, GRS and the Higg Index.

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